Can you change your settings in the message app to only see messages from one of your inbound numbers or addresses? Then everything that shows up would be addressed to that address. Then you could change it to show only your next address, and your next one, and so on.
Hmmm, that may work. Certainly worth checking out later today. Thanks for the idea.
Well, initial test didn’t seem to do anything. Got the same number of message contacts no matter what I chose. But then, maybe the problem is that I have to make the changes on every device. That’s a lot of devices! Of course, even if it stops future messages on a given address to not arrive, I don’t know if old messages to those unchecked addresses would be removed anyway. And if they are removed, do they come back if I select them again! So there is some risk. Definitely not a user friendly situation!
Meanwhile, I did have a similar mystery on my email today as I did last week, but with some differences.
Last week an email for a zoom meeting came through on my phone and computer, but not on either iPad. Yet another message around the same time from the same person to my same address did.
So this time I made it a point to have the computer and phone open to Mail (same as last week) and also the new iPad Mini (which wasn’t last week). The older iPad pro had the screen off, just like last week.
Well, I got all the mail EXCEPT the zoom email on the iPad pro. But it got the other mail from the same person.
I did get a zoom email from another person on all 4 devices. So I see no consistent pattern!
I have a bad feeling I’m going to just to have to risk starting these accounts over again by deleting them and re-adding them.
With all the stuff we read about batteries, I was thinking about a situation and wondering what the best approach is.
We are told it is best not to charge over 80% until close to using our devices (I assume that may mean it is actually even better not to go past 80 to begin with).
But we also know there are only so many recharge cycles a battery can handle.
Which brings me to this situation:
Say I’m using an iPad all day along with my computer at home. I gave a choice of running it from the battery until it gets low, then recharge (let’s say I stop at 80% each time). OR, I can just leave it plugged in and it stays at 100%.
Which puts the greatest burden on the battery?
I was thinking maybe if it is plugged in and fully charged, maybe it isn’t using the battery at all, thus no recharge cycles used. OTOH, it is always maxed out.
Just wondering as I’m experimenting with keeping an app that I don’t have on my computer open on my iPad mounted on an arm next to my computer. Seems like that might be useful. If it doesn’t kill the battery life!
The number of cycle rating for a battery is predicated on an average of 80% depth of discharge and is designed to let you know how many such discharges it will take before the battery is at 80% of its original rated capacity. As you reduce the depth of discharge the number of cycles you can get before hitting that threshold of capacity goes up substantially.
There are two other factors as well. One is calendar aging (which isn’t well studied but results in degradation over time with no other influences) and the other is (as you noted above) charge level. It is best for battery longevity to spend as little time as possible in the 20% “end caps” of the battery capacity (0-20% and 80-100%) and data suggests if you aren’t going to be cycling the battery you’d be best off leaving it in a “resting state” of around 60% or so. Obviously, pegging a number like that presents some challenges because devices aren’t typically set up to allow that sort of control.
I’ll close with noting there are plenty of examples of dead batteries that have single digit lifetime discharge cycles which spent their existence plugged in continuously.
Well, that’s a little scary (single digit lifetime discharge cycles! But then, the question would be whether that is the case for all batteries run that way, or just poor quality ones?
A second question would be, how long were they plugged in. For example, I’ve made it a point to have the battery checked at the Genius bar just before my warranty runs out (2 years). Twice it was replaced for free. I don’t recall the first time, but this last time with my iPhone 11, it was at 90%. It was odd because while I was waiting my turn, another guy was having his battery checked and was told it was still over 80% so it wouldn’t be replaced. So I don’t know if the guy I got messed up or what - but I was glad to get the new battery!
Anyway, if someone leaves it plugged in all the time for, say 5 years, and it won’t do many charges, well, the battery may well have been shot by then anyway. I’ve love to see some serious research into this and compare different approaches.
I’d also like, and maybe someone knows this, is when the battery does become too weak, will the iPad still work if it is plugged in? I remember an old laptop where I could remove the battery, but it still worked when plugged in.
Of course, if the battery goes bad where it is swelling, then you have to do something since that is dangerous. But I’m not talking about that kind of situation.
Well, this is frustrating. I was recording a live stream on my new iPad mini, trying to avoid the problem of the stream stopping and, even if it loaded back up on its own, I still had to press “play”. So I couldn’t leave it unattended. This is the same problem I had with my 9.7" iPad Pro so I’d say it isn’t the device. I’ve had the problem happen sometimes on my iPhone, but FAR less. For example, last night the phone did it once. The iPad must have done it more than a dozen times in 3 hours.
I did everything I could think of for prep. Made sure I was connected on the 5 ghz band where I can expect excellent speed. Set up a “Focus” which stopped all notifications. Turned off Air Drop and Bluetooth too. I also turned off all all the content blockers. Did no good at all.
I do not know if the same thing would happen if I wasn’t actually recording the screen, but I’m assumping it would.
Besides the iPhone 13 Pro Max having far less of a problem, usually the Mac Mini has no such problem. If I get buffering or anything on the same live stream, it is pretty much always the source with the problem because everyone watching will report the buffering or screen just freezing.
I can’t imagine why this keeps happening. I need to record them because they happen in the middle of the night. I need to be able to start the recording and go back to sleep, turning it off whenever I wake up. But with the stops in the stream, I have to stay up to be able to immediately restart it if it stops.
Recording on the Mac isn’t a solution since it doesn’t record the sound.
One other thing I’d like to find a solution to. Not sure what I have that does it, but on youtube on my Mac, I don’t see ads in the videos (if I like a channel, I tend to send money directly to them).
But on my phone and iPad, I do get the ads. Anyone have a good recommendation for an extension or something that will stop ads in iOS?
It sounds like you have to decide whether the problem is worth risking the cost of the USB 3 Lightning adapter and a USB 3 Ethernet adapter.
No guarantees it will fix your problem, because there are many differences between your iPhone and iPad setup. For example - the apps are slightly different, so maybe they have a bug or different behaviour in the iPad app vs. the iPhone app. Or, maybe you are recording with a higher screen resolution on iPad that that hits a limit of some sort, or saturated the bandwidth compared to iPhone.
Why does it work better on iPhone? First we have too small a sample size. “A few tests” or “seems to work better” isn’t really enough to nail down the root cause. Also the iPhone has WiFi assist (ie use Cellular when WiFi sucks).
Only you can decide whether it’s worth the spend for the 2 adapters, and what to do (ie Craigslist them) if it doesn’t solve your issue. Or maybe you can find them on Craigslist.
Lots of interesting things there that I hadn’t thought about (or remembered).
The apps are both just the Safari browser - though there can still be differences. But the screen resolution thing could be critical. I haven’t checked since getting the iPhone 13 Pro Max, but I remember in the past when I’d check youtube settings that the iPhone didn’t give as high a resolution option asthe iPad did. And the point about being able to switch to cellular could be a factor benefiting the iPhone. Though my speed should be way faster than needed on wifi. I’ll make it a point to check the iPhone quality level next time. And I guess I probably should do a practice screen recording of an old live stream (thus no longer live) to see if that makes a difference.
Obviously the Mac with the ethernet connection has even faster speeds.
I did just find a solution to the youtube ads on the iPhone. At least it seems to be working. I have 1Blocker and read that it was supposed to be able to block youtube ads. Mine is the free version. I’m not sure what specific step made the difference, but one thing I read was the free version could only do one thing, but I had all turned on (you can choose to block ads, stop trackers, etc). Maybe having them all turned on caused it not to work. But there is also an option in there somewhere about turning on scripts, which I had turned off. After I turned it on, the ads stopped.
Hmm, just looked at a couple videos (not live stream) on the phone and it showed 1080. I usually have my mini set at 720, partly to reduce the demands and 720 is good enough for my needs.
Well, more experimenting. Might try another browser too.
Well, ran into an unexpected problem today on my 2016 iPad Pro 9.7".
Since I normally prefer to use my new iPad mini, I thought I’d move the bigger on to my bathroom with widgets set up to give me certain basic info (like whether, calendar, etc).
Well, I suddenly found out what apparentsy is an old problem - touch ID wouldn’t work when it was plugged in! Unplug it and all was fine.
Seems there can be various reasons (on at least some iphones too). For some people, using an Apple cable worked. Others used an Apple charger. I don’t know that it is a universal problem. I assume even the kind of case could make a difference.
But my problem (and some other people’s) was when the iPad was in the case. Remove the case and it was fine! From what I’ve done in my preliminary research, it is a grounding issue. One person even said putting aluminum foil in the case helped! Without grounding working right, the electrical signal gets interference and won’t recognize your touch.
Not sure how far I’ll go with experimenting with this (aluminum foil, apple cable, apple charger, whatever), but thought it was worthwhile passing this on in case others aren’t aware of it.
For now, I’m just leaving it out of the case.
In many instances, it is an issue with the case design. The opening in the case is not sized large enough to accommodate all the various cables and when you use some of the non-Apple cables, the lightning connector end can be larger than the Apple version, and because of this, the case does not allow the cable to fully seat into the iPad.
Changing the cable to an Apple cable or changing to a different style case can most often correct this issue. Aluminum foil inside the case might keep the government from spying on you but I doubt it will do anything to correct the issue other than become a potential fire hazard if it shorts something out.
No to stop the spying one must make a hat - and there’s a proper way to do that according to experts on YouTube.
What is sad is that without the
</sarcasm> tags it is possible for people to take what I say seriously.
Well, the case is an Apple case.
From what I remember, some of the older Apple cases were the worst with this issue of not providing the room for other cables to properly seat in the connector on the iPad due to interference with the case itself.
What about the cable? Is it an Apple cable or an aftermarket?
Charger: use the Apple charger. Some charger manufacturers cut corners and their chargers emit more noise (or are even dangerous enough to kill - at least one documented case).
Cable: use a properly grounded, shielded cable. Apple or NewerTech are both good. YMMV but since your iPad came with an Apple cable, why not try it.
I have made some changes. Switched to my SlimQ 65 watt charger. I presently have, I think, an Amazon Basic cable. But I haven’t put the case back on yet to see what happens. When I do, if that doesn’t work, I’ll try one of my Apple cables.
The iPad is 5 years old and I notice that, with the screen asleep, it loses quite a bit of battery. My setup is that it is always plugged in but the outlet is only activated when the bathroom light is turned on. It definitely seems to lose more in between than it gains during the time I’m in the bathroom with the light on. But that may partly be because these devices charge much slower when nearly full. So I’m waiting to see if it reaches a point of balance where it charges enough so I almost never have to charge it extra when not in the bathroom.
Tested with the case on again - usually wouldn’t wake up. Still have to test apple cable and charger.
Kept the SlimQ charger, but switched the cable to a new USB-C to lightning cable. That seems to be working! However, I don’t see why. With the case on, the other cable connector to the iPad doesn’t touch the case at any point. So I don’t see why the case makes any difference.
I do need one other test - using a USB-A to lightning connector. Couldn’t find one. I would think someplace around here there must be at least one! Though I have gotten those Amazon Basic braided cables for normal use (the apple ones tend to break where the cable meets the connector). I’ll keep looking. Maybe I have one in my car.
Update: Found one. It seems to work too with limited testing.